La Ville Rose
Pont-Saint-Pierre | Photo by David Harmantas
Imagine a medieval city painted by nature in a palette that changes from pink at sunrise to coral by day and lavender at sunset...a skyline punctuated by spires atop medieval churches, lush green parks and narrow lanes with patisseries and bookstores set into ancient brick walls, and cafes-terrasses that tempt you to linger forever. This imaginary city would exude the storybook romance of Paris in miniature. Its narrow river would be shaded by stately plane trees and, like Paris, spanned by beautiful arched bridges and embraced by imposing Gothic, Romanesque and Renaissance architecture. Paris is set in the heart of France; this mystical pink city would occupy the heart of Occitania to the south. It wouldn't have an Eiffel Tower (way overrated, I dare to say) but it would most assuredly have a Top 14 rugby team.
By now you've deduced that this place exists. Its name is Toulouse, La Ville Rose. I'd previously known the name only in the context of Henri Toulouse Lautrec, a descendant of the counts of Toulouse. The city was to be our rest stop enroute to somewhere else. We'd read that it makes a charming overnight stopover. Charming, yes—but 24 hours in Toulouse is not enough.
From the antiquity of the stunning Basilica of Saint-Sernin (which holds the most relics of saints in the world outside of the Vatican) to the youthful vibe of 110,000 students at the Université de Toulouse, (established a mere 29 years after the Sorbonne), the walking-friendly city is a study in contrasts and compelling distractions. We quickly tack on two days for a deeper dive.
Rugby: Toulouse is the GOAT
Born of 5th century conquests by the Visigoths, Toulouse is home to 21st century conquerors called Stade Toulousain. The legendary Top 14 rugby team are six-time winners of the Heineken Cup/European Rugby Champions Cup. The club's colors reflect the medieval garb of the city magistrates, and the logo is inspired by a monogram of St. Thomas Aquinas, whose relics are entombed in Jacobin Church.
Couvent des Jacobins
The beautiful church, with its arches, columns, religious paintings and stained glass, is largely a museum with a revolving calendar of exhibits. The cloister garden, refectory, and chapels of its convent offer tranquil resting spots for pilgrims walking the Way of Saint James, identified by scallop emblems on their walking sticks and backpacks.
Basilica Saint-Sernin
Saint-Sernin is the largest Romanesque church in the world and an important destination along the Way of Saint James. An hour in this stunning World Heritage Site will pass quickly between the 15th century spire and crypt below.
Place du Capitole
Umbrella-shaded terrace cafes and brasseries border the vast brick square in front of the majestic marble-columned Capitole. Longer than a rugby field, the building encompasses government offices, dance, music and theater companies, and spectacular art galleries. It's a good starting point for the Toulouse experience.
The painting inside the dome of the Salle des Illustres depicts Marianne, the original Lady Liberty, leading her army in battle against evil in her lion-drawn chariot accompanied by angels, while Satan hovers overhead. In Salle [Paul] Gervais, the paintings focus largely on gallant (or voyeuristic) gentlemen and scantily clothed, seductive women. Admission is free.
Musée Saint-Raymond: Necropolis to Museum
This wonderfully curated museum and archaeological site encompasses three levels of Celtic and Roman antiquities, tombs and sarcophagi. After many incarnations, including a necropolis, a hospital for the poor, and a prison for heretics, it recently (just 130 years ago) opened as a museum.
Sunset Ritual
It's a hallowed tradition to stroll along the Quai de la Daurade, descend the steps to the right bank of the Garonne, uncork your wine, and bask in the magnificence of sunset over the arches of its two iconic bridges, Pont-Neuf and Pont-Saint-Pierre.
Black Madonna
The neoclassical 19th century Basilica of Notre-Dame de la Daurade overlooking the quai enshrines the Black Madonna, Our Lady of Good Childbirth, protector of women in labor. When the old statue's robe that also shelters the baby Jesus deteriorated, notable French designers stepped up with haute couture replacements.
Marché Victor Hugo Market | Photo by Karen T. Bartlett
Marché Victor Hugo
Foodies, rejoice! The vast oh-so-French market is an absolute must-do, especially on uncrowded early weekday mornings when chefs and locals peruse profusions of fresh baked breads, cheeses, foie gras, spices and oils, endless expanses of seafood and bountiful stacks of Saucisse de Toulouse (locally made wine and garlic-infused sausages). Squeeze in among students, families and tourists at a table in one of the end-to-end upstairs restaurants. For a decadent experience, join a foodie tasting tour of the market. Note: English-speaking guides are available only on certain days.
Rugby season runs through May. Book far ahead to see a Stade Toulousain home game.
As packing antiquities is frowned upon, violet-infused chocolates, liqueurs, and cosmetics from the city's iconic locally grown purple flowersmake perfect gifts to take home.
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